told stories
A City That Echoes with Questions
In At Tafilah: Valleys Remember, Winds Narrate, and Springs Restore
Carved by eons of wind and weather, At Tafilah's valleys are living testaments to ancient civilizations. Within the shadowy depths of its caves, flint shards whisper tales of prehistoric hunters. And from the towering sandstone cliffs, echoes of a bygone era resound, where the Edomites once built their fiery city of “Tophel”.
Roman legions once traversed the paths between As Sila‘, Al Hasa, Busayra, and Ghrandal, their presence leaving an enduring mark on At Tafilah. Yet, even their legacy faded as the sands of time encroached, replaced by the echoes of the Ghassanid knights, formidable allies of the Byzantine Empire.
At Tafilah's valleys echo with questions: Who once stood sentinel in As Sila‘ Castle's lofty towers? Who sought solace within Busayra’s Byzantine church? Who called the Al Lu‘ban Palace home and engaged in lively conversations in Katrina and At Tuwanah? And from what mysterious depths do the healing waters of ‘Afra springs forth?
This land has witnessed the rise and fall of countless civilizations, each leaving its mark. At Tafilah's history is etched into its very fabric, from its ancient buildings to its rich heritage. Its mosques, which blossomed like desert flowers in the Islamic era, have matured into the heart of the city's identity.
Each call to prayer in At Tafilah echoes the city's rich Islamic heritage. The martyrdom of Al Harith Ibn ‘Umayr, the Prophet Mohammad's envoy to the Ghassanids, is a poignant chapter in this history. Treacherously killed on his journey to Bosra, his sacrifice preceded the iconic Battle of Muʼtah in nearby Al Karak. Inspired by these events, the people of At Tafilah embraced Islam with open hearts.
At Tafilah is a repository of Islamic heritage, housing the shrines of revered companions like Jaber Al-Ansari and Ka‘b Al-Ghifari. These sacred sites are a testament to the city's deep-rooted faith and the heroism of its people. The bravery of At Tafilah's tribes, exemplified in their alliance with the Hashemites during the Great Arab Revolt, is etched into the plains of Hadd Ad Daqiq. The legacy of wisdom is embodied by figures like Sheikh Dhiyab Al-‘Uran, the visionary leader who shaped the city's destiny.
In At Tafilah's traditional centre, the whispers of history intertwine with the dreams of a new generation. Old houses stand as storytellers, their walls echoing with the spirits of those who came before. The relentless wind continues to sculpt the sandstone landscape, a living testament to the enduring human spirit that has shaped this region for millennia.
When Sleep Itself Becomes a Miracle
The Cave of the Seven Sleepers: Where Time Stood Still
East of Amman, nestled amidst the ancient stones of Ar Rajib, a village shrouded in time harbors a profound secret. Here, at the entrance to the Cave of the Seven Sleepers, awe becomes tangible. This is where sleep itself was transformed into a miracle.
Two millennia ago, this cave became the stage for a timeless tale of courage. Here, righteous youths, fleeing the oppressive rule of their people, sought solace in the mercy of their God. Their sanctuary was a cold, rocky cave, yet their hearts burned with unwavering faith and determination.
As you stand at the ancient entrance, gaze upwards towards the sky. The sun, a silent protagonist in this extraordinary tale, diligently traced the sleepers' shadows across the cave mouth for over three centuries. It was as if time itself stood still, preserving their slumber within the cave's embrace.
Before the seven tombs, a profound reverence washes over you, transforming the visit from a mere tourist excursion into a spiritual pilgrimage. Here, you witness the tangible evidence of divine intervention. These youths, their bodies untouched by time, became living testaments to God's power. Their souls, carried through centuries of slumber, harbored dreams of a world liberated from oppression, a vision nurtured within the cave's cold embrace.
Crossing the earthen threshold, a profound sense of wonder and awe envelops you. How does consciousness reemerge after centuries of slumber? Was this awakening a prelude to an eternal existence, or merely a respite before the final judgment? The unimaginable challenges faced by these young men upon reentering the world are almost incomprehensible.
Then, a vivid image forms in your mind: the young men and their faithful dog emerging into a world radically transformed. Tyranny has yielded to a society guided by faith. Yet, the chasm between their suspended reality and the present is vast. How can minds awakened from centuries of slumber comprehend the passage of time? The complexities of human existence, even in wakefulness, often mimic the surreal nature of dreams, making one yearn for the fleeting stillness of a suspended moment.
The air in Ar Rajib is thick with mystery and legend. As you traverse these hallowed grounds, the warmth of the youths' companionship and the unwavering loyalty of their canine friend become palpable. Leaving the cave behind, a profound yearning for return settles in your heart.
Within these ancient walls, a miracle lay dormant, a testament to the enduring power of the divine, even across the expanse of centuries.
Where Mysteries Linger and Inscriptions Endure
Umm Qays: Unveiling Secrets, Bearing Witness to Miracles
Perched on a plateau overlooking the Jordan Valley and the shimmering Sea of Galilee, Umm Qays stands as a sentinel of the past. One of the ten illustrious cities of the Decapolis, it has guarded its secrets for centuries, its grandeur concealed beneath layers of time and basalt. Countless legends swirl around this ancient metropolis, and the enigmatic inscription of the poet Arabios at its entrance only deepens the allure of its mysteries.
Umm Qays, or Gadara as the Romans named it, is a living testament to the passage of civilizations. Here, the echoes of miracles reverberate, as it is said that one of Christ's divine acts unfolded within its walls. Poets found inspiration in its grandeur, inscribing their final verses amidst its ancient stones. Greeks, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans, among others, left their indelible marks on this city. Once a bustling metropolis, its markets thrummed with the energy of trade, its theatres echoed with the applause of crowds, and its philosophers pondered life's mysteries. Today, the towering basalt columns stand as silent sentinels, guarding the secrets of a bygone era.
The city is cloaked in an aura of mystery, with legends and whispers weaving through its ancient stones. Some speak of ethereal lights dancing in the night sky, while others claim to hear voices carried on the wind. Are these mere figments of imagination? or do they echo the wisdom of philosophers like Meleager of Gadara, Menippus, and the haunting poetry of Arabios?
Bathed in the warm glow of the sun, Umm Qays presents a stark yet captivating beauty that leaves visitors spellbound. As daylight fades, the city is enveloped in a serene tranquillity. Yet, beneath this peaceful exterior lies a history imbued with the miraculous. According to the Gospels, Christ performed one of His divine healings here, casting demons from a tormented man. The echoes of this extraordinary event continue to reverberate through the ancient streets and inspire faith around the world.
Each visit to Umm Qays unveils new layers of its complex history. Once a thriving metropolis basking in Roman opulence, the city also bore witness to the trials of war. The bravery of its people is as legendary as its former grandeur. Yet, the true allure of Umm Qays lies in its enigmatic nature. Can a single visit unravel the centuries of secrets embedded within its stones? Arabios, a poet consumed by the city's mysteries, left a poignant message for posterity: "O passerby, as you are now, I was before, and as I am now, you will be”!
The poetic inscriptions that adorn Umm Qays stand as silent sentinels, guarding the city’s secrets at the precipice of time. As visitors prepare to depart, the city seems to whisper a promise of revelations yet to come. Until that day, they might heed the words of Meleager, the poet who found solace in death’s embrace within his beloved Gadara, a city he deemed “sacred”.
