told stories
A City That Echoes with Questions
In At Tafilah: Valleys Remember, Winds Narrate, and Springs Restore
Carved by eons of wind and weather, At Tafilah's valleys are living testaments to ancient civilizations. Within the shadowy depths of its caves, flint shards whisper tales of prehistoric hunters. And from the towering sandstone cliffs, echoes of a bygone era resound, where the Edomites once built their fiery city of “Tophel”.
Roman legions once traversed the paths between As Sila‘, Al Hasa, Busayra, and Ghrandal, their presence leaving an enduring mark on At Tafilah. Yet, even their legacy faded as the sands of time encroached, replaced by the echoes of the Ghassanid knights, formidable allies of the Byzantine Empire.
At Tafilah's valleys echo with questions: Who once stood sentinel in As Sila‘ Castle's lofty towers? Who sought solace within Busayra’s Byzantine church? Who called the Al Lu‘ban Palace home and engaged in lively conversations in Katrina and At Tuwanah? And from what mysterious depths do the healing waters of ‘Afra springs forth?
This land has witnessed the rise and fall of countless civilizations, each leaving its mark. At Tafilah's history is etched into its very fabric, from its ancient buildings to its rich heritage. Its mosques, which blossomed like desert flowers in the Islamic era, have matured into the heart of the city's identity.
Each call to prayer in At Tafilah echoes the city's rich Islamic heritage. The martyrdom of Al Harith Ibn ‘Umayr, the Prophet Mohammad's envoy to the Ghassanids, is a poignant chapter in this history. Treacherously killed on his journey to Bosra, his sacrifice preceded the iconic Battle of Muʼtah in nearby Al Karak. Inspired by these events, the people of At Tafilah embraced Islam with open hearts.
At Tafilah is a repository of Islamic heritage, housing the shrines of revered companions like Jaber Al-Ansari and Ka‘b Al-Ghifari. These sacred sites are a testament to the city's deep-rooted faith and the heroism of its people. The bravery of At Tafilah's tribes, exemplified in their alliance with the Hashemites during the Great Arab Revolt, is etched into the plains of Hadd Ad Daqiq. The legacy of wisdom is embodied by figures like Sheikh Dhiyab Al-‘Uran, the visionary leader who shaped the city's destiny.
In At Tafilah's traditional centre, the whispers of history intertwine with the dreams of a new generation. Old houses stand as storytellers, their walls echoing with the spirits of those who came before. The relentless wind continues to sculpt the sandstone landscape, a living testament to the enduring human spirit that has shaped this region for millennia.
When Sleep Itself Becomes a Miracle
The Cave of the Seven Sleepers: Where Time Stood Still
East of Amman, nestled amidst the ancient stones of Ar Rajib, a village shrouded in time harbors a profound secret. Here, at the entrance to the Cave of the Seven Sleepers, awe becomes tangible. This is where sleep itself was transformed into a miracle.
Two millennia ago, this cave became the stage for a timeless tale of courage. Here, righteous youths, fleeing the oppressive rule of their people, sought solace in the mercy of their God. Their sanctuary was a cold, rocky cave, yet their hearts burned with unwavering faith and determination.
As you stand at the ancient entrance, gaze upwards towards the sky. The sun, a silent protagonist in this extraordinary tale, diligently traced the sleepers' shadows across the cave mouth for over three centuries. It was as if time itself stood still, preserving their slumber within the cave's embrace.
Before the seven tombs, a profound reverence washes over you, transforming the visit from a mere tourist excursion into a spiritual pilgrimage. Here, you witness the tangible evidence of divine intervention. These youths, their bodies untouched by time, became living testaments to God's power. Their souls, carried through centuries of slumber, harbored dreams of a world liberated from oppression, a vision nurtured within the cave's cold embrace.
Crossing the earthen threshold, a profound sense of wonder and awe envelops you. How does consciousness reemerge after centuries of slumber? Was this awakening a prelude to an eternal existence, or merely a respite before the final judgment? The unimaginable challenges faced by these young men upon reentering the world are almost incomprehensible.
Then, a vivid image forms in your mind: the young men and their faithful dog emerging into a world radically transformed. Tyranny has yielded to a society guided by faith. Yet, the chasm between their suspended reality and the present is vast. How can minds awakened from centuries of slumber comprehend the passage of time? The complexities of human existence, even in wakefulness, often mimic the surreal nature of dreams, making one yearn for the fleeting stillness of a suspended moment.
The air in Ar Rajib is thick with mystery and legend. As you traverse these hallowed grounds, the warmth of the youths' companionship and the unwavering loyalty of their canine friend become palpable. Leaving the cave behind, a profound yearning for return settles in your heart.
Within these ancient walls, a miracle lay dormant, a testament to the enduring power of the divine, even across the expanse of centuries.
Where Mysteries Linger and Inscriptions Endure
Umm Qays: Unveiling Secrets, Bearing Witness to Miracles
Perched on a plateau overlooking the Jordan Valley and the shimmering Sea of Galilee, Umm Qays stands as a sentinel of the past. One of the ten illustrious cities of the Decapolis, it has guarded its secrets for centuries, its grandeur concealed beneath layers of time and basalt. Countless legends swirl around this ancient metropolis, and the enigmatic inscription of the poet Arabios at its entrance only deepens the allure of its mysteries.
Umm Qays, or Gadara as the Romans named it, is a living testament to the passage of civilizations. Here, the echoes of miracles reverberate, as it is said that one of Christ's divine acts unfolded within its walls. Poets found inspiration in its grandeur, inscribing their final verses amidst its ancient stones. Greeks, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines, and Ottomans, among others, left their indelible marks on this city. Once a bustling metropolis, its markets thrummed with the energy of trade, its theatres echoed with the applause of crowds, and its philosophers pondered life's mysteries. Today, the towering basalt columns stand as silent sentinels, guarding the secrets of a bygone era.
The city is cloaked in an aura of mystery, with legends and whispers weaving through its ancient stones. Some speak of ethereal lights dancing in the night sky, while others claim to hear voices carried on the wind. Are these mere figments of imagination? or do they echo the wisdom of philosophers like Meleager of Gadara, Menippus, and the haunting poetry of Arabios?
Bathed in the warm glow of the sun, Umm Qays presents a stark yet captivating beauty that leaves visitors spellbound. As daylight fades, the city is enveloped in a serene tranquillity. Yet, beneath this peaceful exterior lies a history imbued with the miraculous. According to the Gospels, Christ performed one of His divine healings here, casting demons from a tormented man. The echoes of this extraordinary event continue to reverberate through the ancient streets and inspire faith around the world.
Each visit to Umm Qays unveils new layers of its complex history. Once a thriving metropolis basking in Roman opulence, the city also bore witness to the trials of war. The bravery of its people is as legendary as its former grandeur. Yet, the true allure of Umm Qays lies in its enigmatic nature. Can a single visit unravel the centuries of secrets embedded within its stones? Arabios, a poet consumed by the city's mysteries, left a poignant message for posterity: "O passerby, as you are now, I was before, and as I am now, you will be”!
The poetic inscriptions that adorn Umm Qays stand as silent sentinels, guarding the city’s secrets at the precipice of time. As visitors prepare to depart, the city seems to whisper a promise of revelations yet to come. Until that day, they might heed the words of Meleager, the poet who found solace in death’s embrace within his beloved Gadara, a city he deemed “sacred”.
Christians and Muslims gather in hope
A Knight's Legacy in As-Salt: St George Church
Nestled within the labyrinthine streets of As-Salt's old city, at the summit of weathered yellow steps, lies a church with a dual identity. Revered by both Christians and Muslims, this sanctuary is adorned with wishes inscribed on scraps of hope and optimism. Local tales whisper of Saint George's steed, its neighing echoing through the church walls, where the knight found his eternal rest.
Every day, this church, a sanctuary of tranquillity and majesty, welcomes its visitors. Within its walls, the echoes of past and present intertwine, as some seek healing, while others whisper their wishes. This sacred space is a unique haven in Jordan, where Christians and Muslims converge in shared devotion.
The church, also known as the "Al-Khader" Church, was erected in 1682 above an ancient cave. Legend has it that Saint George appeared to a shepherd at this very spot, instructing him to build a church in his name. The shepherd rallied the townspeople, and together, they constructed a place of worship that continues to draw visitors seeking blessings and fulfilling wishes.
Local tales from As-Salt recount a mysterious night when a neighing sound echoed through the area. The following morning, the townspeople discovered the hoofprints of a horse within the church itself, a testament to the supernatural visit of a knight believed to be Saint George. This relic, preserved under glass, continues to intrigue and inspire visitors.
Local residents and devotees believe that the knight in question is Saint George, or Al-Khader as he is known to Muslims. Revered across various faiths, Saint George was a legendary military leader who converted to Christianity and ultimately sacrificed his life for his beliefs.
The church's reputation extends beyond its historical significance and miraculous origins. Visitors often recount experiences of a fragrant scent emanating from the cave's rocks. Additionally, it is believed that oil miraculously seeps from a specific rock within the cave, while a mysterious water source flows from above. These phenomena have further solidified the church's sacred status.
Scattered throughout the church, small scraps of paper bear the hopes and dreams of countless visitors. Here, people come to seek blessings, whether it's a woman longing to have children, a young girl yearning for love, or a sick person hoping for recovery. These wishes, inscribed on paper and left within the sacred space, are a testament to the enduring power of faith.
Al-Khader Street in Old As-Salt is home to a remarkable church that stands as a testament to the power of hope and unity. For centuries, it has been a place where people of diverse faiths converge, fostering understanding and tolerance. The church remains a silent witness to the enduring power of love, punctuated only by the occasional, imagined neighing of Saint George's legendary steed, perhaps collecting the wishes left behind!
A "Black Oasis" full of mystery
Kings, Caravans, and Inscriptions: The Story of Umm Al-Jimal
Perhaps little has been unearthed about the antiquities of Umm Al-Jimal, a site nestled in northern Jordan. Yet, its weathered black basalt stones hold a wealth of stories, perplexing archaeologists and explorers alike. The structures and inscriptions bear witness to the passage of diverse civilizations, some merely passing through, others leaving their enduring mark.
This "black oasis," with its striking volcanic rock formations, was once a bustling hub for trade caravans. Its name, Umm Al-Jimal, reflects this rich history. Dating back to the 1st century AD, when the region was part of the Nabataean Kingdom, the city is shrouded in mystery. Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it continues to captivate visitors with its ancient charm.
Umm Al-Jimal is a treasure trove of archaeological wonders. Inscriptions in various languages, including Latin, Greek, Nabataean, Safaitic, and early Arabic, are scattered throughout the site. These ancient texts offer tantalizing glimpses into the city's rich history, revealing the lives of its rulers and inhabitants over centuries.
A black stone bears the enigmatic inscription, "This is the tomb of Fihr the son of Sullai, teacher of Ghadima, king of the Tanoukh." The identity of this enigmatic figure has perplexed archaeologists and historians alike. Was he a tribal chieftain or a kingmaker, as the inscription suggests? His role in the history of Umm Al-Jimal remains a captivating mystery.
This mysterious inscription may refer to King Ghadima Al-Abrash, who ruled over the Tanukhids tribes inhabiting southern Syria and Jordan. These tribes, known for their use of ancient Arabic language and Nabataean script, add another layer of intrigue to the enigmatic stones.
This inscription is just one piece of the intricate puzzle that is Umm Al-Jimal. Originally settled by the Nabataeans in the 1st century AD, the city later fell under Roman rule, transforming into an agricultural and commercial center. During the Byzantine era, Umm Al-Jimal embraced Christianity, leading to the construction of sixteen churches, including the ancient Julianos Church. The city's rich history continued under the Umayyad Caliphate, marking the beginning of Islamic rule in the 7th century AD.
Umm Al-Jimal was a strategic crossroads, situated along the Roman Trajan Road and connecting Palestine and Jordan to Syria and Iraq. As one of the ten cities of the Decapolis League, a federation of Greek and Roman cities, it held a significant position at the intersection of modern-day Jordan, Syria, and Palestine.
In ancient times, the imposing Commodus Gate served as the main entrance to Umm Al-Jimal. Today, it stands as a boundary between the city's modern and ancient quarters, a silent witness to both its vibrant present and its enigmatic past.
In addition to the impressive gate, another prominent landmark in Umm Al-Jimal is the imposing "Castellum." This structure has a rich history, beginning as a Nabataean edifice before being repurposed by the Roman army after 106 AD. Its strategic orientation towards Petra, the capital of the Nabataean Kingdom, adds more layers of intrigue to this enigmatic city.
Home of the Pillar-Saints
Um er-Rasas: A Fortress of Faith and A Sanctuary of Solitude
Staurachios son of Zada, the meticulous artisan responsible for the mosaics in the Church of Saint Stephen in Um er-Rasas, was unaware that his name would be etched into eternity. His legacy lives on in an inscription adorning the church altar, a testament to his dedication amidst the trove of inscriptions and secrets that abound in this southeastern Jordanian archaeological gem.
Um er-Rasas, also known as "Kastron Mefaa," is a treasure trove of archaeological artifacts spanning the Byzantine, Roman, and early Islamic periods. Once a Roman military camp, it blossomed into a thriving city in the fifth century. However, archaeologists believe that only a fraction of its secrets has been unearthed, hinting at a far richer and more extensive history waiting to be discovered.
Um er-Rasas, a city adorned with sixteen churches, boasts remarkably preserved mosaic floors. The Church of Saint Stephen's mosaic floor, in particular, is a captivating masterpiece, depicting the region's cities of that era. It offers a glimpse into the history of this site, once a haven of peace, piety, and monastic seclusion, where hermits forsook worldly pursuits to embrace a life of meditation.
The intricate mosaics adorning the church floors in Um er-Rasas offer a vivid window into the lives of its ancient inhabitants. Depicting birds, livestock, and hunters, these pictorial maps provide invaluable insights into the daily life of the people. The mosaic floor of St. Stephen's Church is particularly noteworthy, showcasing numerous Jordanian, Palestinian, and Egyptian cities from the Byzantine Empire, identified by their Greek names.
Within the imposing walls of this fortress, visitors can explore a labyrinth of buildings, arches, and churches showcasing exquisite architectural styles. The mosaic floor, depicting the region's cities including Jerusalem, Um er-Rasas, and Alexandria, invites contemplation and wonder.
Um er-Rasas once served as a sanctuary for ascetics who sought solitude in its towering structures. Visitors can still witness the two square stylite towers that bear testament to the practice of "pillar saints," monks who would isolate themselves atop columns for years, engaging in a rigorous pursuit of spiritual enlightenment.
These towers, more than mere historical monuments, symbolize the resilience and strength of the human spirit. They represent a realm where the boundaries between earth and heaven blurred, where isolation was profound, and where only the most resolute individuals could endure the arduous test of faith and endurance.
